It’s easy to appreciate the places we go as paddlers. They’re beautiful and often have interesting histories, and our kayaks and canoes give us the ability to get up close for a uniquely intimate perspective. But we enjoy them and learn far more about them through the people we meet.
For example, Lisa (above right) came out to meet us when we landed on the Trout Bay beach on Grand Island. We already knew quite a bit about the island — how millennia of Native Americans lived there, followed by about a hundred years of settlers and loggers who chopped down all the trees and essentially abandoned it; how the Forest Service purchased it from the Cleveland Cliffs Iron Company in 1990, grandfathering in two tracts of private land and a few cottages on federal land that could only be passed down within the families who owned them. And we already knew from paddling around the perimeter that this was a stunningly beautiful place, and were grateful for the views our kayaks afforded us.
But through Lisa, we learned about life on the island and what it’s like to spend extended time in a place where most people come and go after a few hours or a few days, and experience only a small fraction of the network of trails. Lisa has watched it as the seasons change and the years and decades go by, and has a long view of the island, its inhabitants and Lake Superior.
We met Blanche when we reached a dead end while looking for a campground in a forested area along the northern shores of Lake Michigan. She grew up near Gould City, but moved to Flint to work for General Motors and lived there for 25 years. When she retired, she moved back to the UP, where she can be outdoors all day and doesn’t need to lock her doors at night. She knows all the plants and bird, trails and creeks in the area.
Blanche led us down a gravely road to one of the free campgrounds hidden in the forest and warned us against wandering further down the meandering and rutted paths, lest we get lost. When we return, she promised to take us further into her beloved local wilderness.
We have a special place in our hearts for Dick Sterk, whom we met at the Museum of Ojibwa Culture in St. Ignace. He was among the Native American elders working with some museum employees to replace the deteriorating Long House with a new one build according to traditional methods.
Dick, 80, invited us to visit him at his cottage in the Les Cheneaux Islands and paddle around some of the 36 islands that comprise this archipelago in the Straits of Mackinac. We were intrigued by Dick and wished to get to know him better. So we accepted the invitation.
It’s difficult to summarize what we learned from Dick. He gave us a much deeper understanding of this area’s history and the experiences of Native Americans who’ve lived here for generations. He told us about his father’s work as a ship’s engineer on the ferry that transported trains across the Straits of Mackinac, his experiences growing up, and his career as a welder and the work he did on bridges near and far. He introduced us to his neighbors, and told us stories that revealed his gentle and honest dealings with people. It was hard to say good-bye to him, and we’ll certainly be back to visit him again.
Of course, we also stopped by to visit Jessie Hadley of Woods & Water Ecotours in nearby Hessel to say hello. Woods & Water Ecotours carries a nice selection of Valley sea kayaks, Werner paddles, Kokatat garments and kayaking essentials. Her tours range from an afternoon to a week or two, and can include paddling, hiking, bicycling, skiing, snowshoeing and even dogsledding.
Les Cheneaux is a great area for birding, fishing and exploring, and Jessie makes it possible for people with little or no prior paddling experience to get out with knowledgeable and safety-conscious guides.
And there were others, too, whom we met more briefly, including David, who was taking his Black Lab puppy for a paddle.
And Margie, a biology teacher from Evanston, who was doing the Lake Michigan Circle Tour with her sister.
And Bunny, who is now running the general store in Webbwood, Ontario founded by her parents: “Tom Stuart and Wife.”
Each of these people was generous enough to spend some time and share some perspective with us. Meeting them transformed what otherwise might have been a superficial encounter into a deeper experience of the places we’ve been.
Sometimes we get so caught up in paddling or tripping that we forget to look around, not only at the natural beauty but at the people around us with so much to share. Thanks for reminding us that the people we meet on our journeys can enhance the experience.
It’s true, Lenore. This trip is reminding us about that all over again.
It was a pleasure meeting the both you too, and I’m glad to hear that you enjoyed Les Cheneaux. It is a magical place. The next time you plan to travel this way, contact me for a place to stay and some paddling. I’ll probably be towing the puppy in her own boat pretty soon.
David, it was a pleasure to meet you, your daughter and your puppy.
A soundtrack for this posting could be “People Make the World Go ‘Round”. Thanks for sharing these heartening encounters.